Hair Heritage

In this blog post, I research into the deep cultural significance of Black hairstyles, tracing their origins, meanings, and roles within African communities and beyond. I discuss the social, spiritual, and identity-affirming functions of traditional hairstyles like braids, twists, and locs. Also, I address contemporary issues such as cultural appropriation and the struggles against racial discrimination in Black hairstyling. Furthermore, I explore how different photographic equipment and techniques can enhance my creative skills and contribute to cultural discussions, including preliminary interview insights from four Black individuals.

Black hairstyles are diverse and rich in history, creativity, and cultural significance. They vary widely across different regions and ethnic groups, reflecting the continent’s vast cultural diversity. Here are some of the main types of Black hairstyles:

1. Braids and Plaits: These include a wide variety of styles such as box braids, cornrows (also known as canerows in the Caribbean), and micro braids. Braids can be styled in countless ways and often incorporate beads, shells, and other adornments. Cornrows are a traditional African style of hair braiding where the hair is braided very close to the scalp, using an underhand, upward motion to produce continuous, raised rows.
2. Twists: This style involves sectioning the hair and twisting the sections around one another. Examples include two-strand twists and flat twists, which lie flat against the scalp.
3. Afros: The afro is a natural hairstyle where the hair is combed out to form a halo around the head. It became particularly popular during the 1960s and 70s as a symbol of black pride and natural beauty.
4. Bantu Knots: Bantu knots originate from the Bantu people of Africa. The hair is sectioned, twisted, and then wrapped to form small, coiled buns.
5. Locs: Locs (previously known as “Dreadlocks”, a term that is deemed racist due to its etymology.) involve matting the hair into ropes or locks. This style has been worn for centuries in Africa, with significant cultural and spiritual meanings in different communities.
6. Fulani Braids: Named after the Fulani people of West Africa, this style combines cornrows and box braids, often adorned with beads, cowrie shells, and gold clips. It’s characterized by a distinct pattern of braiding, usually featuring one or more cornrows braided in the opposite direction.
7. Threaded Hairstyles: Hair threading uses a thin thread to wrap around sections of hair from root to tip. This traditional African method of styling and stretching hair is known as African threading.
8. Twist-Outs and Braid-Outs: These styles are created by unraveling twists or braids to leave the hair with a defined curly or wavy pattern. They are popular for showcasing the natural texture of the hair.
9. Protective Styles: Though not a specific hairstyle, protective styles cover a range of methods intended to protect the ends of the hair from damage. These include wigs, weaves, and extensions that can mimic various natural African hairstyles, providing versatility while protecting the hair.

Each of these hairstyles carries its own history, cultural significance, and variations. They reflect the creativity, adaptability, and resilience of African cultures and their descendants around the world.

Cultural Significance

Hairstyles served multiple purposes within African societies:

• Identity: Hairstyles could indicate a person’s age, ethnic identity, marital status, wealth, and rank within the community. Different tribes and regions had distinctive braiding styles, enabling individuals to express their origins and affiliations.
• Social Status: Intricate designs often signified higher social status. The more complex the braids, the higher the status of the wearer, as they indicated that one had the resources to dedicate time and workforce to hair styling.
• Spirituality: Hair was, and still is, considered powerful and spiritual in many African cultures. Cornrows and other braided styles were believed to be a way to communicate with the divine, with each braid representing a rope to God.

Practicality

These hairstyles were also practical for African people, especially considering the climate of Africa. The style kept hair neat and tidy, protected it from the harsh sun, and was conducive to the physical labor many engaged in daily. It was also a method for managing hair that could otherwise become unmanageable in its natural state due to the heat and humidity.

The Transatlantic Slave Trade and Diaspora

The transatlantic slave trade had a profound impact on African hairstyles. Enslaved Africans brought their cultural practices, including hair braiding, to the Americas. Despite the harsh conditions and the attempts by slave owners to strip Africans of their cultural identity, the practice of these hairstyles persisted as a form of resistance and a way to maintain a connection to African heritage.

In the Caribbean and South America, enslaved people used these hairstyles as a means to keep their hair neat but also to convey messages, mark maps for escape routes, and even to transfer seeds hidden within the braids for planting crops.

Modern Times

Today, traditional African hairstyles have spread globally and are embraced by people of all backgrounds, often sparking conversations about cultural appropriation. In the African diaspora, these hairstyles remain a symbol of pride, heritage, and resistance against assimilation. They have been popularized by celebrities, athletes, and more, further embedding them into the fabric of modern fashion and identity.

However, despite their widespread popularity, African Americans and other people of African descent have faced discrimination and prejudice for wearing cornrows and other natural hairstyles, leading to movements and legislation like the CROWN Act in the United States, which seeks to protect individuals from discrimination based on hairstyles.

The history of these hairstyles is a testament to the resilience, creativity, and enduring strength of African culture and its ability to survive and adapt through centuries of change and challenge.

Some examples of hairstyles I did on our children are shown below. Our children are of Nigerian, British, & Chinese Malay heritages. Their hairstyles are celebrating their Nigerian heritage; their Dad washes, conditions, & treats their hair while I style it; it takes 2 – 3 hours per child to complete the wash, treatment, and styling. Then a week later, I take the hairstyles out, then we start the process again. To maintain the health of Black hair, Dermatologists suggest washing Black hair once a week or every other week. This routine aids in minimizing the accumulation of hair care products, which can lead to dryness in the hair. This hair care routine is one that has taught our family about patience and results of preparation as well as celebrating our culture. Another benefit for us is that our 4- and 8-year old children have learnt how to communicate their wishes for styling or for a pause during the styling in a way that is kind and loving. They are always so proud of their hairstyles and are developing their creativity when they ask for specific hairstyles.

Once or twice a year, the children get their hair trimmed and deep conditioned by our amazing professional Hairstylist, Yvette; she is also a guide for my husband & I with respect to best hair care products and processes we should use to maintain the children’s hair.

I showed their faces in some of the portraits but for the actual project, the Black individuals will have anonymity similar to those portraits with the subjects facing away from the camera lens. I attempted to obscure their faces with some of their toys; however, I would prefer to explore other ways to preserve their anonymity, perhaps through the use of other cultural accessories.

This project will also research the optimal way to present the Black hairstyles after an exploration of the technicalities and logistics of making the hairstyles.

There are more examples of styles I did on our eldest child in this reel. For this project, I aim to take more photographs of the other types of hairstyles mentioned earlier using different lighting and backgrounds. The subjects will be a variety of Black individuals whose hairstyles were done by the subjects themselves, or by a family member, or a friend, or by paid professional hairstylists. Their anonymity will be preserved.

Exploring Black hairstyles through photography requires a thoughtful approach to both equipment and technique to ensure that the unique textures and details are captured beautifully and authentically. Here’s a breakdown of suitable camera equipment and techniques that I plan to use:

Camera Equipment

1. Camera Body: Full-frame DSLR or mirrorless camera is ideal for this type of photography due to their superior dynamic range and low-light performance. I will be using my 3 full-frame DSLR camera and 1 full-frame mirrorless camera, all are Nikons – D800, D700, D4s, & Z6ii.
2. Lenses:
   • Portrait Lens: My 85mm or 50mm prime lens will be excellent for capturing sharp, detailed images with a flattering perspective and shallow depth of field. I used my 85 mm lens for the close up shots above. I will explore the difference that using the 50 mm lens provides.
   • Macro Lens: For close-up shots of hair textures and styles, a macro lens can capture intricate details. My macro lens will be used with my tripod for image stabilization. 
   • Wide Lens: My 35 mm lens or my 24 – 70 mm lens will show overall look to show how the hairstyles look when combined with clothing and footwear. 
3. Lighting:
   • Softbox or Umbrella: These are crucial for diffusing light and ensuring that the skin and hair are lit evenly, which is particularly important for highlighting the nuances in darker skin tones and hair textures.
4. Reflectors: I will use my reflectors to bounce light onto the subject, filling in shadows and highlighting hair details.

Techniques

1. Lighting Techniques:
   • Rembrandt Lighting: This technique involves positioning the light source at a 45-degree angle from the subject, creating a mix of light and shadow that can highlight hair texture while adding a dramatic effect.
   • Butterfly Lighting: Positioned directly in front of and above the subject, this lighting minimizes shadows and is great for beauty shots.
2. Shooting Angle and Composition:
   • Eye Level: For interviews and most portraits, taking photographs at eye level creates a direct and personal feel.
   • High Angle: Useful for showcasing elaborate hairstyles or patterns in the hair.
3. Post-Processing:
   • Color Grading: Adjusting the tones to enhance the natural glow of the skin and the richness of the hair.
   • Detail Enhancement: Using sharpening tools selectively on the hair to bring out the texture without over-sharpening the skin.
4. Interaction with Subject:
   • Guided Posing: Direct subjects to pose in ways that naturally highlight their hairstyles.
   • Engagement: Keep the dialogue flowing to capture natural expressions which enhance the authenticity of the photographs.

Incorporating these equipment choices and techniques will help me effectively capture the essence and beauty of Black hairstyles in this photography project, enriching both my artistic output and technical skills.

“Crazy Hair Day” is a theme day often celebrated in schools and sometimes at workplaces. During this event, participants are encouraged to style their hair in the most creative, outrageous, or unusual ways possible. It is a day dedicated to self-expression and creativity, where the norms of everyday hairstyles are set aside in favour of wild colours, extreme styles, and playful accessories. The aim is to have fun and showcase individuality, often while raising spirits or sometimes even funds for a good cause. However, it can inadvertently lead to the appropriation of Black hairstyles, which are meaningful and culturally significant to many Black individuals. When traditional Black hairstyles are presented as “crazy” or outlandish, it can be perceived as disrespectful or trivializing the deep cultural roots and the identity that these hairstyles represent. This unintentional appropriation can make Black individuals feel misunderstood or marginalized in spaces where their cultural expressions should be respected and valued. It’s crucial to have conversations about these implications to ensure that such events are inclusive and sensitive to all cultural backgrounds.

Links that discuss why “Crazy Hair Day” must be challenged in schools and child care facilities:

Theme days schools should avoid (and what to do instead)

On “Crazy Hair Day”: A letter to Daycare

Crazy Hair Day by Educator Arianna Lambert

Fear and discomfort shouldn’t block anti-racism efforts in schools

Exploring Black hairstyles through interviews and photography offers a unique opportunity to deepen my creative expression and technical expertise. Here’s how this project will enrich my work and personal growth:

1. Enhanced Sensitivity and Insight: Conducting interviews will give me a deeper understanding of the cultural and personal significance of Black hairstyles. This awareness can transform the way I approach my subjects, leading to more authentic and respectful representations in my work. It enriches my narrative capacity, allowing me to tell more meaningful stories through my images.
2. Technical Growth: Experimenting with different photographic equipment and methods to best capture Black hair will challenge and expand my technical skills. I will consider lighting, colour balance, and lens choices that best complement different skin tones and hair textures. This will push me to innovate and perhaps develop new techniques tailored to showcasing the rich details and textures of Black hairstyles.
3. Personal Connection and Inspiration: On a personal level, exploring what excites me about Black hair—the textures, the history, the variety, and the stories behind each style—can reinvigorate my passion for photography. It connects me deeper with my subjects and their experiences, making my work more than just a job; it becomes a channel for connection and storytelling.
4. Portfolio Diversification: This project will diversify my portfolio, in terms of the content, style, and depth of my work. Showcasing a range of Black hairstyles will highlight my versatility and sensitivity to diverse subjects, which can open doors to new clients and audiences who value inclusive and culturally sensitive work.
5. Cultural Contribution: By accurately and respectfully capturing Black hairstyles, I will contribute to the broader discourse on race, beauty, and identity. My photographs could challenge stereotypes and offer new perspectives, thereby contributing to cultural appreciation and understanding.

This project is about growing as a creator and person while contributing to important cultural conversations. It is an opportunity to merge technical skills with deep, meaningful interactions, and broadening my impact as a Photographer.

I started the interview aspect of this project by asking the following questions to 4 Black individuals:

1. Your first name, age, & profession.

D N: DeeDee, 46, Technical Support

J B: Junie, 60, Retail Management

L M: Lexus, 27, Journalism Student

N P: Nikki, 43, Woman in Tech

2: Do you do any of your relatives’ hair care? 

D N: Yes, a few family members

J B: Yes, my Daughter

L M: I’ve been teaching my 12 year old brother how to maintain his hair. We have different hair textures, but I want him to know how to make his crown look and feel its best.

N P: I don’t do any of my relatives haircare anymore – did my younger sister’s but she is all grown now.

3. What’s been your most memorable hair moment at work or play? Share a story where your Black hair stole the spotlight!

D N: As a Black woman in Canada, my hair is almost always a cause for conversation and sometimes unwanted attention especially in the workplace perhaps because I change hairstyles frequently and I also like bright colours in my hair. 

The one time I do explicitly remember is having my natural hair styled in a Mohawk and the commentary around it in the work place plus strangers asking to touch it or take photos was so off putting I took it down after a couple of days.  It was just a little too much attention lol. 

J B: Wearing my hair in Bantu knots.

L M: Oftentimes at work, my hair is celebrated amongst my peers. Whether it’s in its natural state, braids, sleeked back, braid out, etc. they recognize the effort and different styles I do. Which feels amazing! Black hair is so versatile and I enjoy exploring the different ways I can create a new version of myself through my hair. 

N P: it’s always interesting as people of different race/ethnicity don’t grasp the concept of Black hair. I remember years ago when I started working at one organization, I had different wigs and for two straight weeks, I would switch my wigs out every day at work and I kid you not, EVERY single day I was asked, “this has to be your real hair now” by the same people. and I would constantly explain the difference but they still couldn’t get it.

4. Ever had a hair-raising (good or bad) experience at school? Let’s hear your wildest classroom hair tale!

D N: I can’t say I ever had a hair raising experience as I attended high school and university in West Africa, Nigeria, to be exact, where styling your hair either short, long or fabulously is the norm for a lot of us. 

J B: N/A

L M: Definitely! None from school come to mind, but the wildest one was: this one time I had just gotten my box braids done and I walked into my office at my previous job, and a co-worker looked at me and said I look like Alien vs. Predator. I was taken aback by their shameless ignorance.

N P: An interesting hair story is when I was in high school, I went to the hairdresser to get my hair done. Back in my country, kids were not permitted to have highlights in their hair for school but being the bold me, I had my hair fully highlighted in orange and went to school from winter break. The Principal had me in front of the entire school during our morning devotion as an example of what they didn’t want at school. Later, I spent the entire day at the Principal’s office and was warned not to come back to school like that. I wasn’t in the position to go back to the hairdresser that same day so I used black shoe polish to cover the highlights. I almost passed out at school from scent of the polish all day – needless to say, I skipped the rest of the school week.

5. How does your hair routine shake up your morning or nighttime vibe? Walk us through your most epic hair prep saga!

D N: In the past few years, my hair has been in its natural state i.e free of chemical relaxers or texturizers so if I don’t have my hair in cornrows or braids, it does take a few hours to wash, condition, detangle before I can wrap it up for the night or prep for work in the morning which means waking up extra early, if I want to look and feel my best for the day. 

The most epic hair saga was having to travel to a whole other country to get my hair braided into extra long super micro braids. It took roughly about 16 hours and 8 people to complete. It was a one time experience that I would not repeat regardless of how beautiful the hair turned out. 

J B: Doing a twist out before and after.

L M: I realize now that I am constantly thinking of ways to style my hair for the week or which styles can last the longest before I re-do my hair. It’s almost like meal prepping. 

Usually I wash my hair on a Sunday, it’s a part of my reset. That means shampooing twice, then conditioning and detangling my hair. Once I’ve completed those steps, the methodology comes in—hair primer, styling cream, finger coiling, hair drying, and then picking it out for the best volume. It doesn’t stop there! I know people say you can have one or the other—volume or length, but I want both, that’s balance! So, just before bed, I place my hair in a pineapple to stretch the curls a bit, and then I lock the shine and definition in with my bonnet.  

As the days go on, my hair gets bigger and the curls become more stretched—balance! In the morning, a good shake to the curls and fringe and we’re set for the day. 

N P: I don’t have a hair routine as I either have braids in or a wig on!! If I have braids in, my hair will always be covered in a bonnet for bedtime and removed for daytime. If I have a wig on, I usually hold it in place with a melt band to keep the edges down then this process is followed by me wrapping or plaiting my wig to maintain curls, followed by bonnet . Pretty simple.
Getting ready in the morning – my braids are taken down followed by moisturizing spray to maintain curls throughout the day.

6. “Crazy Hair Day” at school or work—fun chance to experiment, or a cultural misstep? What’s your take?

D N: Crazy hair day is a day I’ve only experienced through my daughter here in Canada and honestly I feel it is fine especially for kids.. it is a chance to do something fun and artistic with your hair.  I do not in the least find it offensive or regard it as a cultural misstep. I say let the kids have their fun. 

Back when I was in high school we had something similar called Rag Day where you dressed up as silly as you could for fun and sometimes for charity. I think crazy hair day is just a variation of that. 

J B: N/A

L M: As a child I enjoyed the idea of crazy hair day. I saw it as another “fun” day. I recognize now it could be an unintentional misstep, which hopefully has since shifted with the mass shift to be more conscious. Overall, I do think it’s a fun way to experiment with hair, but I think for young Black children there is a tactful way to participate while still respecting your child’s hair. 

N P: Crazy hair day to me is when you roll out of bed and didn’t bother fixing the hair. Leaving the house with the hair unkept.

7. What does “Crazy Hair Day” mean to you personally? Any funny, poignant, or thought-provoking memories associated with it?

D N: Crazy hair day to me is simply a fun day to do something different and fun with your hair, my daughter had several crazy hair days in kindergarten and grade school and  made great memories experimenting with styles and colours alongside her friends.

J B: Don’t have any crazy hair day stories.

L M: There are definitely memories that come to mind when I recall crazy hair day at my school, but we didn’t know better. So, there isn’t any contempt toward the day or silly comments kids made. I think it can be a fun indulgence for kids. 

N P: N/A.

This is the start of the research referenced within the Grant application. Much more photos and research will follow if Grant is approved.